Well, after owning the gun for about 9 months, I actually had a chance to shoot it. Not very impressed with it. Had a couple of FTF, cheap Federal range ammo, light primer strikes. I used the "bad" rounds in my CZ, and a Kimber, and they fired in them fine. Accuracy was decent, but nowhere as good as my CZ P10F. Both guns had Holsun 507G optics. I may sell two magazines with TF blue +4 extensions after trading the SFX in, not sure what they are now worth, but I'll figure that out later.

FTF aren't unheard of in the few several hundred rounds. Were you using 124 grain? If you call Canik, they'll send you a lighter recoil spring.

Light primer strikes are unusual. Sorry to hear you didn't like the accuracy, could that have something to do with you presumably having more experience with the P10F?

I don't think the gun itself isn't accurate, it just the way it fits me. I already have the light recoil spring installed. I might go the TF weight kit; I already have the brass backstrap, and it still feels a little noise heavy. I am going to run some better ammo through it today, I'm sure I had some harder than usual primers, white box Federal range ammo is what I used, CCI brass worked fine. In these times ammo isn't available in many different variations, as we all know.

Sounds like you know what you like and this may or may not end up working well for you. Such is life. The light strikes make me wonder if you have fully cleaned out the striker channel.

All internals have been cleaned, polished, deburred, and a new Freedomsmith trigger was installed. The same ammo FTF in my wife's S&W PC also. I ran some better ammo through, and it all went fine, no FTF. A Canik seems to be a decent gun, but not quite living up to the hype I anticipated.

Well said, CZ is now making a P10 Competition gun, exactly what I built myself, very nice guns for the price. I read all the reviews about Canik firearms, and was expecting a Shadow 2 race gun, or something close, not quite at that level, not even close. My main problem was the light recoil spring, my slide wouldn't go to battery. The one thing about Canik guns, I wonder how much better they would be if they didn't throw in a bunch of "extras" and just made a better gun to start with. Maybe get the springs figured out, or at least throw them in the kit? To use the blue recoil spring, I would have to change my striker spring, I know this gun is for NATO rounds. But the funny thing is, my CZ, S&W, and Kimber all shoot everything without any changes?

I will buy the mags if you decide to sell them.

Bruno911 wrote: ↑Sun Jan 02, 2022 7:30 am Actually, I tried the blue recoil spring a while back (no striker spring changes from the default). It was too weak in that it seemed to allow the slide to hit its stop too hard. That amplified recoil effects (at least to me anyway). I switched back to the default/normal spring and just let the spring "break in" on my ammo (340-380ft-lb ammo). After the break-in it's been working fine in terms of cycling properly on any ammo I have. I have some 420ft-lb ammo that I'll try while using the normal spring. If the normal spring it too weak I can swap-in the red spring for that level of energy. But at least I'll know more after that experiment. I don't have any drive to compete, I just enjoy trying to target shoot accurately using not-low energy ammo.

Exactly what I experienced. I finally found some Sig Sauer ammo, M17 124grain +P Nato rounds, and V-Crown 147 grain shells. these worked very well. I don't shoot competition, but I like to use guns for it. No-one likes an inaccurate gun, and the Canik are very accurate WITH the right ammo. My only real problem is finding the good ammo available. My 9mm guns are for practice, and to keep me in tune for my hunting revolvers, my BFR 45/70 has a little more recoil (LOL), and the ammo is even harder to find.