Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Modifications, Tutorials, Gunsmithing, Instructional and "How To" articles, write ups and videos.
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by LT USN (Ret.) » Sat Jun 23, 2018 3:50 pm

Try this link and scroll down the page and look for Phil's.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing ... dition=new
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by 3375 Mr Unice » Sat Jun 23, 2018 5:31 pm

Keep them Coming. Inspiring, Great reads.
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Weapon » Sat Jun 23, 2018 8:42 pm

mikeAZ wrote:
Sat Jun 23, 2018 3:25 pm
No findum???.... I tried all different doors/ways??? Prime only deal????...
Looks like it sold out at the sale price pretty quickly and then reverted to $17 and change per pack.
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FS Trigger increased pull weight - fixed

Post by Weapon » Sun Jun 24, 2018 10:51 pm

I have heard some people say the FS trigger caused their trigger pull to increase as it holds the trigger return spring at a slightly more stretched position than the factory trigger. After playing around with one today, it looks like this is indeed the case with the SFx and factory trigger return spring. I installed both on an SFx and the trigger pull weight increased almost a pound even though it was much shorter take up and you would have never thought the pull was any heavier much less almost a pound from the way the trigger feels with the FS trigger. Could probably just leave it alone, right?

Do I really have to answer that?

If you want to remove the extra tension but still have the FS trigger, this is a dirt cheap DIY fix of the highest order (even more so if you are a fisherman)...

In the pic, a factory trigger return spring and a no 1 or no 2 split ring on the end of a pick (I forget which as I tried 4 of them - the one that is almost the same diameter as the loop on the end of the spring is the correct size. I simply put the small split ring on the loop end of the spring that connects to the trigger bar. It adds back just enough length to relax the trigger return spring to its original tension with the FS trigger installed. A pack of six split rings is about 60 cents but you can likely swipe one off of a smaller inline spinner if you are a fisherman.

Image

Edit to add an additional pic. You want a ring that is just about this size:
Image

Pic of the spring installed in the gun - trigger hook -> split ring -> factory spring loop:
Image

Edit to add numbers for the test SFX:
The pre-FS Trigger pull was ~3lbs 6oz to 3.7oz on average.
With the FS trigger it first jumped to 4lbs 4oz - 4lbs 6oz average pull (it definitely didn’t feel like it but the Lyman Digital insisted).
The split ring mod dropped it back to 3lbs 4oz average.
As such, it should drop any SFx with the FS trigger right back down to the pre-install pull or maybe just a hair lighter.

I would not try a longer or larger round split ring than the one in the pics as it would increase the odds of interference with the ejector block and also increase the risk of having the ring slip off the spring hook. With that particular size, it has enough tension and is thick enough to stay on the trigger bar’s spring hook without rubbing on the ejector block. The Eagle Claw oval fits up to a sz3 which you can get at most Academy Sports. They work even though they are a Sz3 because the are longer than they are tall so they do not rub on the underside of the slide.

Anyway, problem solved.

Potential caveat(s):
1. If you get your trigger pull weight too low, it can make the blade safety more apt to disengage until it is under more tension from the trigger return spring. This is also a problem with the factory trigger and really light pull weight. Regardless, it should be fine down to at least 2.25lbs and that is as light or lighter than most want to go anyway. If you want to go lighter, you can mod the spring in the blade safety or you can slightly shorten the part of the blade safety that contacts the frame. If you mod the blade, you can leave it functional but remove just enough material to clear the frame with the lighter trigger pull.
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by 3375 Mr Unice » Sun Jun 24, 2018 11:04 pm

Another great Post Thank you. My wife has Jump rings Galore, all different sizes and you make this so Easy I can even do this one.
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by mikeAZ » Sun Jun 24, 2018 11:17 pm

Since I added the Freedom trigger (big improvement), I'm even happier with my Canik.... That said, i'm going to try the Home Depot spring again... Maybe it will even get better???..I shouldn't.... but I will try
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Weapon » Mon Jun 25, 2018 12:17 am

mikeAZ wrote:
Sun Jun 24, 2018 11:17 pm
Since I added the Freedom trigger (big improvement), I'm even happier with my Canik.... That said, i'm going to try the Home Depot spring again... Maybe it will even get better???..I shouldn't.... but I will try
The good thing about the HD spring is they are slightly too long and you have to trim them down anyway so you can just stop trimming a little earlier if using the FS trigger.

I need to fit another one of those HD springs tomorrow. I am kinda curious as to how the FS trigger will feel around 2.0lbs
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Re: FS Trigger increased pull weight - fixed

Post by ncjw » Mon Jun 25, 2018 8:15 am

Weapon wrote:
Sun Jun 24, 2018 10:51 pm
Could probably just leave it alone, right?

Do I really have to answer that?
LOL! Both hilarious and ingenious.
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by mpanova » Mon Jun 25, 2018 5:24 pm

Thanks for all this info I know everyone here appreciates it.

On the subject of adding weight. What about a back strap made out of tungsten?
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by mikeAZ » Mon Jun 25, 2018 7:21 pm

I'm going to try some 1/4" & 3/8th" brass rod & some tungsten fishing weights.... Yes, I know, not as heavy as 99% tungsten but much easier to come by. TF maybe coming out with a brass magwell version for the SFX (e-mailed him)... I know, I know, not able to use in CO, but who knows????
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Weapon » Tue Jun 26, 2018 12:21 pm

mpanova wrote:
Mon Jun 25, 2018 5:24 pm
Thanks for all this info I know everyone here appreciates it.

On the subject of adding weight. What about a back strap made out of tungsten?
I don't think it will fly in CO as it would be an external modification that isn't specifically allowed (unless there is an official ruling on that I haven't seen yet).

Edit for clarification: USPSA has what I often refer to as the No-see-em rule for Carry Optics division -- most modifications are legal so long as you cannot tell the pistol has been modified from stock when looking at the outside of the gun. There are some specific exceptions to that: trigger can be changed, guide rod can be changed, mag extensions can be used, the grip can be stippled, etc. but if it isn't one of the clear exceptions listed in the CO appendix, it ain't legal.

The short version: legal = sneaky. ;-)
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Hank B » Sat Jun 30, 2018 3:40 pm

Weapon I just want to say thanks for all the no nonsense easy to understand information you have submitted. My weapons background goes back quite a ways and you have helped me so I'm sure your post have really helped a lot of guys out there in Canik land. I'm a firm believer that everyone should have at least a basic knowledge of firearms if there going to be in use and the SFX and pt9 series in general is a great striker fired polymer frame platform for guy's just starting out in doing there on mods, upgrades and repairs to learn on. Not only will it save you money but most importantly if and when your weapon goes down in the middle of an engagement you should have the knowledge to get it up and back in the fight ASAP. Anyway I just want to say thanks again to Weapon and all the others that have shared there knowledge and know how.
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Weapon » Sun Jul 01, 2018 12:54 am

Hank B wrote:
Sat Jun 30, 2018 3:40 pm
Weapon I just want to say thanks for all the no nonsense easy to understand information you have submitted. My weapons background goes back quite a ways and you have helped me so I'm sure your post have really helped a lot of guys out there in Canik land. I'm a firm believer that everyone should have at least a basic knowledge of firearms if there going to be in use and the SFX and pt9 series in general is a great striker fired polymer frame platform for guy's just starting out in doing there on mods, upgrades and repairs to learn on. Not only will it save you money but most importantly if and when your weapon goes down in the middle of an engagement you should have the knowledge to get it up and back in the fight ASAP. Anyway I just want to say thanks again to Weapon and all the others that have shared there knowledge and know how.
I am glad to hear the thread has been useful (despite my occasional rant and other random silliness...)

I try to keep most of the mods in this thread semi-reasonable as I know most people do not have mega-heavy tools in their garage. One of the things that used to annoy me to no end when I was just starting down the road of DIY gunsmithing was the so-called "DIY how-to" article that would show the gun or part of the gun in a $3000 mill or lathe at some point in the article along with DRO numbers. That is great if you are in the 20% of people who have that kind of hardware in your shop but it doesn't do much for the other 80%. As such, the vast majority of this thread will stay focused on "how you can improve your Canik without buying a machine shop". :smile:
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Hank B » Sun Jul 01, 2018 10:48 am

Yes sir I agree. Learning to improvise and work with what you have is a good thing. Never be afraid to experiment, most of our greatest inventions came about threw experimentation, always thank outside the box. After the first mag it's been a love affair between me and my SFX. It feels great in my hand and lines up straight with my arm making sight alignment easy and fast. POA and POI was perfect right out of the box as well as the ability to make double and triple tap's and engaging multiple targets I've never been involved in competition shooting but I've been a combat and tactical shooter for over 25 years. My goal is to get my SFX to the point of reliability and dependability as my Glocks are. I want to take my SFX into the combat role and know with out a shadow of a doubt when that threat appears I can engage and remove it without any malfunctions. If and when that time comes my Glocks and 1911's will be retired and my SFX will become my one and only go to for my sidearm. Again thanks for all the great information and any thoughts or suggestions you might have on transitioning my SFX over to the combat role would be greatly appreciated.
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Weapon » Tue Jul 03, 2018 3:47 am

Hank B wrote:
Sun Jul 01, 2018 10:48 am
...any thoughts or suggestions you might have on transitioning my SFX over to the combat role would be greatly appreciated.
If you wanted to make an SFx a tuned up GTW pistol, my approach would a little different what I normally do for general range use and definitely different from my competition set up. 100% reliability is top priority with a GTW/self defense or home defense pistol. The classic list for that type of pistol is usually: 100% reliable and acceptable combat accuracy which usually boils down to two things with most modern pistols - a decent trigger pull and good sights.

My approach would probably be the following.

1. Pull out the factory RSA (preferably the newer version of it with the blue end as it allows a wider ammo selection), disassemble the guide rod as mentioned earlier in this thread, polish the guide rod itself, reinstall the end with Loctite red (the kind that makes it permanent unless you take a torch to it) and then re-stake the end.
2. Polish the feed ramp to a mirror finish
3. Polish the head of the extractor - especially the angled face that first makes contact with the bullet so it will slip onto the case rim as easily as possible.
4. I'd leave the current striker spring or replace it with nothing lighter than a 31 Newton spring.
5. Leave the SDU firing pin block plunger spring but cut off one coil at a time (but no more than three) until I got a 4.0 pound trigger
6. Sights: Warren tactical front night sight. If using a red dot, I would install a Leupold DeltaPoint Pro because it has an optional rear sight that you can attach to it and I would definitely want an iron sight back up to any electronic dot sight. If you haven't seen the DPP backup sight and how it attaches to the DPP, it is on this page:
https://www.leupold.com/gear-and-access ... iron-sight
7. Grip tape or stipple the grip. Stippling is the fail-safe option.
8. If I were going to stick with the 20 round mags, I would ditch the factory plastic baseplate extensions and replace them with Taylor Freelance mag extensions. They are aluminum and they screw lock in place so you can add a tiny drop of Loctite blue and they are not going anywhere unless you want them to come off. With the factory follower and TF baseplate, capacity jumps to 22+1 rounds. As they are aluminum, they should be much more durable. Possible addition: CZ75 +5% or +10% mag springs. The factory mag springs are slightly weak with the 20 round extensions and they will also be a little weak with the TF mag extensions. The CZ +5% springs are an improvement but if you are sticking with the factory RSA, you could get away with the +10% springs -- you might lose one round on max capacity as that last round will be very hard to get in but the extra reliability might well be worth it. That will depend on the conditions/environment -- lots of fine dust/sand where you live? Definitely could be worth it. Taylor Freelance and Ben Stoeger Pro Shop have the CZ75 mag springs. Wolff Gunsprings likely has them as well. You may see a CZ mag spring paired with the Grams follower that advertises 23+1 capacity but those will not engage the slide lock so I would save those for competition pistols.

Hmm. I will get out my SFx, look it over and give this some more thought...but that is a solid start.
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Hank B » Wed Jul 04, 2018 10:25 pm

Your suggestions on a SFX becoming a GTW is right on the spot. I was thinking on the same line's but your knowledge on the Canik is far greater than mine so all the information and suggestions you have I would sure appreciate. The information on Leupold Pro's back up iron sight attachment was also greatly appreciated. I had never heard of it before but that's perfect for the SFX. If I decide to go with a pistol optic Leupold will be getting my money. At the moment I'm rockin an Ade Advanced optics Avenger Model: RD3-11-2. I wanted to try something less costly to see if I liked it before I lay out hundreds on an optic that might end up in a drawer. By the way the Ade is one hell of a good optic especially for the price. I paid around $90.00 for it threw eBay and have shot over 500 rounds with it attached and it's holding perfect zero. I would highly recommend it to someone that would like to run a speed dot on there weapon without spending a lot of money. I'll be waiting to hear more from you.
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by LT USN (Ret.) » Thu Jul 05, 2018 8:51 am

Hank B wrote:
Wed Jul 04, 2018 10:25 pm
I'm rockin an Ade Advanced optics Avenger Model: RD3-11-2
Did one of the SFx mounting plates that came with it fit the Ade Advanced optics Avenger Model: RD3-11-2?
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by erh300 » Thu Jul 05, 2018 1:15 pm

Weapon, I've been debating doing a grip chop on my V2 to match my Elite. Haven't been able to get up the gumption to do it yet. Do you have any experience with this? Thanks.
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Hank B » Fri Jul 06, 2018 8:08 am

LT USN (Ret.) wrote:
Thu Jul 05, 2018 8:51 am
Hank B wrote:
Wed Jul 04, 2018 10:25 pm
I'm rockin an Ade Advanced optics Avenger Model: RD3-11-2
Did one of the SFx mounting plates that came with it fit the Ade Advanced optics Avenger Model: RD3-11-2?
Yes it fits perfect on the number 1. plate. There was a slight over hang hitting the rear of the slide so I had to file around 2mm. off the back bottom edge of the optic which only took about two minutes. To my surprise the Ade red dot is holding up much better than I ever expected it to. I'm getting close to a thousand rounds and is still holding true. Just for the hell of it I poured a 12oz. bottle of water all over it with no affect. Yesterday morning my dog knocked the slide off the bench with the Ade attached. It hit the wooden floor from around three feet up and it's still holding zero and working fine. Now that I've tried a red dot on a pistol I'm completely sold on it. At 55 my eyes are not what they used to be and that red dot is real easy to see and within to mags of practice I was on the money and acquiring follow up shots super fast. Even though I will be getting the Leupold DeltaPoint Pro with the back up iron sight attachment in the near future the Ade is a remarkable optic for the money and I would recommend it to anyone looking for a budget red dot. It comes with a solid Picatinny mount so I'm considering mounting it on one of my AR pistol builds. If I do I'll let everyone know how it performs under 5.56x45 recoil. I appreciate all the helpful information coming from you guys out there in Canik land, keep up the good work. To all my fallen brothers I love and miss y'all and God bless America.
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by LT USN (Ret.) » Sun Jul 08, 2018 9:09 am

Hank B wrote:
Fri Jul 06, 2018 8:08 am
There was a slight over hang hitting the rear of the slide so I had to file around 2mm. off the back bottom edge of the optic which only took about two minutes.
Got any pictures you can share?
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