Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Modifications, Tutorials, Gunsmithing, Instructional and "How To" articles, write ups and videos.
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Weapon » Tue Aug 21, 2018 10:24 am

Hank B wrote:
Mon Aug 20, 2018 8:17 am
Thanks Weapon again your knowledge on the Canik is greatly appreciated. I had swapped the original RSA for a King Glock gen.3 to gen.4 conversion kit with an 11lb. spring which I found was way to week. I'm ordering an 18lb spring for it soon. I keep playing around with different spring configurations until I find the right combination. I've had no problem with the 6.5 lb Ghost striker spring yet but I'm going a little stiffer. Despite it's size I'm determined to turn my SFX into an EDC. Any info is always welcome.
17#-18# is probably about right for hot self defense loads. I would also order a 15# or 16# spring for plinking loads...probably 16#. Unless you are going to shoot in competition with really light CO loads, there is no reason to go insanely light with your RSA.
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Hank B » Wed Aug 22, 2018 2:59 am

Just got the blue replacement RSA in today from Century Arms. I'm going to take it apart tomorrow and give the guide rod a nice polish before heading to the range. As you know I'm not interested in shooting really light loads so after breaking the spring in it might be just what I need. As far as the striker spring goes what would your recommendation be for an EDC/combat pistol?
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Weapon » Wed Aug 22, 2018 2:05 pm

Hank B wrote:
Wed Aug 22, 2018 2:59 am
Just got the blue replacement RSA in today from Century Arms. I'm going to take it apart tomorrow and give the guide rod a nice polish before heading to the range. As you know I'm not interested in shooting really light loads so after breaking the spring in it might be just what I need. As far as the striker spring goes what would your recommendation be for an EDC/combat pistol?
If there is any chance you are going to use ammo with harder primers like milsurp stuff (*combat pistol*), I would leave the striker spring stock, polish the trigger bar, polish the drop safety block plunger, change out the SDU firing pin block plunger spring for a Wolff or Ghost reduced power block plunger spring from a Glock 17 and then test it. That should put the trigger at right about a flat four pounds which is just about right for a SD/combat pistol.

Option 2: basically about the same approach I took with the TP9SA a few pages back. Polish the trigger bar and firing pin block plunger, break in the pistol a bit and then measure the trigger pull. If it has the blue SDU block plunger spring, you can pull that spring out and nip one coil off at time until you get a 4.0lb trigger. It will likely take between 2 and 3 coils. You can actually nip half coils if you want to really fine tune it. The Wolff or Ghost spring is less time consuming and only sets you back about $4.
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Hank B » Thu Aug 23, 2018 8:25 am

I've already polished the trigger bar, the frame where the trigger bar rubs, plunger, the hole in the slide where the plunger goes, the feeding ramp, striker assembly, and the recoil spring guide rod. I've also installed the Ghost reduced power block plunger spring from a Glock 17. I've got no way to measure the trigger pull but damn does it feel good. For drills I shoot the Winchester NATO 124g.ball ammo and for defensive rounds I use the 92g.G2 Research R. I. P. ammo. I personally think the stock striker spring is way to stiff so what's your opinion on sniping off a coil or two from the stock spring or maybe a 9# striker spring from a Glock or something? By the way the 92g.R.I.P. ammo fired out the 5.2in.barrel is absolutely amazing to say the least. It does good in ballistic gell but shot into a hanging 200lb.boar with the hide removed at 10 yards is incredible.
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Weapon » Thu Aug 23, 2018 11:58 am

You can take a coil off of the stock striker spring or pick up a 31 Newton Glock 17 striker spring. I have never had a light strike with a 31 Newton striker spring.
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by 6712 halit » Fri Aug 31, 2018 3:38 pm

Weapon wrote:
Thu Aug 23, 2018 11:58 am
All posts and all effort you have put into this... Just saying WOW man!!!
I am greatfull for having people like you here, sharing the knowledge, taking your time to help others. Thank you Weapon!

I have used the DPM recoil system for PPQ and it works flawlessly. I had to change the strikerpin spring to avoid the slide to not battery.
I have about 2k rounds with DPM now and no issues.
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Weapon » Fri Aug 31, 2018 6:30 pm

Working on another tweak for the ultra light trigger/light RSA crowd but I am not at all sure it is safe yet. If you hear that I blew myself up (with a pistol), assume it wasn't.

I had to clarify "with a pistol" as I also have a semi-questionable plan for a .308 load which might lead to blowing myself up with a rifle.
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by LT USN (Ret.) » Fri Aug 31, 2018 6:56 pm

Weapon wrote:
Fri Aug 31, 2018 6:30 pm
Working on another tweak for the ultra light trigger/light RSA crowd but I am not at all sure it is safe yet. If you hear that I blew myself up (with a pistol), assume it wasn't.

I had to clarify "with a pistol" as I also have a semi-questionable plan for a .308 load which might lead to blowing myself up with a rifle.
PICTURES!
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Weapon » Sat Sep 01, 2018 1:48 pm

LT USN (Ret.) wrote:
Fri Aug 31, 2018 6:56 pm
Weapon wrote:
Fri Aug 31, 2018 6:30 pm
Working on another tweak for the ultra light trigger/light RSA crowd but I am not at all sure it is safe yet. If you hear that I blew myself up (with a pistol), assume it wasn't.

I had to clarify "with a pistol" as I also have a semi-questionable plan for a .308 load which might lead to blowing myself up with a rifle.
PICTURES!
pics of me getting blown up? video of me getting blown up would likely get more hits. :-D
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Weapon » Wed Sep 12, 2018 6:01 am

Work has delayed adequate testing of the latest SFx internal mod. Summer = a crazy high caseload...often with crazy people. The weather needs to cool off and soon.

On to the other minor project I did manage to get done. Over time, the Talon rubber textured grip on my SFx had worn a bit slick. I got in the habit of wiping it down really well with alcohol or other cleaner the night or morning before a match and then also using a dry grip enhancer. That typically worked for about 1/2 to 3/4 of a match before I would have to wipe down the grip, apply more grip goop to my hands or both. So, I decided to try something different.

Skateboard tape is still cheap. One sheet of it is maybe $9 off amazon and it is enough to make a bunch of grip wraps for competition use. As a bonus, you can cut one without the cutout for the Canik emblem if you want to really maximize gripping surface. After cutting out a grip to fit the front and sides, I peeled off the old grip tape, cleaned up the grip with some rubbing alcohol and then applied my skateboard tape on in the same way you would apply any grip wrap. I finished it with a typical heat gun warm up and then press hard to heat set it. I then added a thin strip of skateboard tape down the backstrap.
End result? Wow - much better for competition. The pistol feels like it is glued in my hands without adding a dose of grip enhancer. With the grip enhancer goop on my hands, it feels like the pistol is super glued in place.
I am going to try a couple more slightly different patterns for the grip to see which one gives me the best overall grip but I am sold on this for a removable grip upgrade. The only other options that come close are very aggressive checkering or very aggressive stippling but those are both permanent. I will add pics of the grip tape and likely a template as well to this thread as soon as I get a few extra minutes of spare time.
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by jonholl » Wed Sep 12, 2018 6:22 am

Another mod, although it's permanent, is to grind down the stippling & paint the front & back panels (sides also, if desired) with non-skid/grit paint. I don't like stippling & was using stick on non-skid to cover the stippling (my Kahr CM9) when I got a sample bottle of grit paint. Took the dremel tool to the fsx & painted the front & back panels, works for me. It's permanent, but my sfx isn't exactly a collectable.
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Weapon » Wed Sep 12, 2018 7:25 am

The problem with stippling is some form of it will be semi-permanent. If you do not like one particular pattern, you can change it up quite a bit. I have found that the pattern and where/what it is on makes a huge difference in whether or not I like it.

I hate micro-stippling on pistol grips but I love the exact same pattern on Magpul AR mags. I like grain type stippling on certain pistol grips but not on others (grip angle may have something to do with this)

Skateboard tape. Much like any other grip wrap that uses any form of adhesive, prep and application are crucial. I give the grip several wipe downs with rubbing alcohol or a soap and water scrub down. While the grip is drying, I make sure there are no really sharp corners on the grip wrap as those tend to snag and lift - I often round them slightly. From there, I peel the backing and get the wrap lined up on the grip with fairly light pressure. I double check it to make sure there are no air bubbles or wrinkles and then warm it up with a heat gun before using a small piece of foam (like Kydex molding foam) and my thumbs to really push the wrap into the contours of the grip. If I want it really, really stuck, I heat it a second time and then drop it into my CB Kydex press and clamp it down with fairly heavy pressure until the grip and wrap are back to room temp.
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Weapon » Tue Oct 09, 2018 12:21 am

I am officially ready for the weather to cool off so people will calm down and the court docket will lighten up. Half a dozen projects on my bench and right next to no time to work on any of them...but I will be making time for at least one this week: More SFx tweakage as my brain finally sparked and gave me some more new ideas...or maybe I just drank the right amount of coffee for a change?

Side note: still loving the skateboard tape grip wrap. It keeps the pistol from shifting around nearly as much.
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by 6712 halit » Tue Oct 09, 2018 4:01 pm

Weapon wrote:
Tue Oct 09, 2018 12:21 am
I am officially ready for the weather to cool off so people will calm down and the court docket will lighten up. Half a dozen projects on my bench and right next to no time to work on any of them...but I will be making time for at least one this week: More SFx tweakage as my brain finally sparked and gave me some more new ideas...or maybe I just drank the right amount of coffee for a change?

Side note: still loving the skateboard tape grip wrap. It keeps the pistol from shifting around nearly as much.
The skateboard tape will get worn out after some time. Heat up with heatgun and take off the old 1. Clean the grip with alcohol and put on new tape.
Awaiting them new tweaks. Get some more coffee pls :P
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Weapon » Tue Oct 09, 2018 5:20 pm

6712 halit wrote:
Tue Oct 09, 2018 4:01 pm
Weapon wrote:
Tue Oct 09, 2018 12:21 am
I am officially ready for the weather to cool off so people will calm down and the court docket will lighten up. Half a dozen projects on my bench and right next to no time to work on any of them...but I will be making time for at least one this week: More SFx tweakage as my brain finally sparked and gave me some more new ideas...or maybe I just drank the right amount of coffee for a change?

Side note: still loving the skateboard tape grip wrap. It keeps the pistol from shifting around nearly as much.
The skateboard tape will get worn out after some time. Heat up with heatgun and take off the old 1. Clean the grip with alcohol and put on new tape.
Awaiting them new tweaks. Get some more coffee pls :P
Yep. Pretty much any of the grip wraps give up over time especially with exposure to heat like that unfortunately found at every summer time match in the south. I looked at my grip wraps recently and almost all of them were showing signs of adhesive slippage. That is the bonus of the high grade skateboard tape - massive sheet for $9 and I can trace a grip fairly well. 😊

Hmm. I will probably need to add pics to this later but for anyone who has never tried to make a grip wrap, it isn’t incredibly difficult. Get some fairly thick poster board or card stock and cut off a piece about the same height as the grip but just a few millimeters longer on the top and bottom. It also needs to be large enough to wrap around both sides of the grip and cover the front strap (don’t try to make a full one piece wrap on your first try that covers all sides including the backstrap unless you want a headache). Cut a notch from the top middle of the paper that the width of the trigger guard (so you can cover the front strap and wrap the paper around each side. Get both sides nice and tight to the gun and then tape them in place so they don’t move. Trace your pattern in whatever shape you want keeping in mind that you want the wrap to cover any point essential to your grip (possible exception - the higher part of the backstrap that meets up with the webbing of your thumb). Once you have it traced, carefully trim it out with an exacto knife. You can then lay that on the back of the skateboard tape and use it as a template to trace the pattern onto the tape. Use the exacto knife to cut it out. Test fit the first one before you cut out more than one based on your template as you may want to make minor changes to the areas covered. The skateboard tape may bend a little differently than the poster board so the first one will not always be perfect but you can get surprisingly close to it with just a bit of practice.
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Sorge » Tue Oct 09, 2018 10:13 pm

Great info, Weapon.
Grip tape works great and is cheap. I have the two layers on the sides of the grip and covered the front and backstrap with one layer. Fists like a glove and works awesome for me. Keep the template, cut out extras, and change out when needed.
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Weapon » Mon Oct 15, 2018 6:34 pm

I started playing around with the various guide rod options for the SFx quite some time ago. Mine has now had five or six different guide rods in it with various springs: a modified commander guide rod (takes quite a bit of time to grind down - not recommended), a Sig 226 guide rod with Sig 226 spring (works and you could likely use it with Commander springs if you wanted), Sig P320 fat guide rod, etc.

I recently came across an extended Glock Gen 3 tungsten guide rod and decided to give it a try as I had already done the tungsten junk in the trunk mod from several posts back. The SFx is well under the upper weight limit for Carry Optics so there is room to play around with extra (internal) weight. The Jentra Ultra Heavy 17L guide rod looked about right so I ordered it along with a Gen 4 guide rod adapter and some recoil springs from Wolff gunsprings. Since I shoot a bit of everything from Carry Optics powder puff loads at around 128pf up to +p spec, I ordered Wolff recoil springs in 11 and 13 pounds - the Jentra guide rod came with a 16lb spring.

After some delivery delay(s), I got the parts in and, as usual, discovered nothing can ever just be entirely easy with pistol mods. Meh - I would be bored if I got an easy one.

Upon test fitting, I found the Gen 4 adapter didn’t really fit like I wanted. It wasn’t thick enough to bottom out against the inside of the slide and the larger rim was just big enough to keep it from dropping in the slide so it wouldn’t wobble around. My trusty calipers claimed the outer rim was 0.550” diameter and the cutout in the slide was around 0.510”-0.511”. So, I took some 3M paper to the outside of the larger rim on the Gen 4 adapter to reduce it down until it would fit like so:

Image
No wobble and it keeps the the guide rod centered in the slide. That is important with the Glock guide rods as the head which mates to the barrel is actually slightly too small. However, it works well once paired with the Gen 4 adapter on the other end of the guide rod and I have had no problems with mine popping out of place during live fire or otherwise.

And I lost a pic so I am going to have to continue this in the next post...
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Weapon » Mon Oct 15, 2018 7:20 pm

Side note before I forget to mention it:
This should be fairly obvious but I can see how there would be some confusion if you didn’t have several springs side by side — You cannot really use spring rates for springs designed for different pistols and compare them when you are talking about using them in a pistol they were not designed to be used in (like a 13lb Commander spring vs a 13lb Glock spring in a Canik). One may be 13lbs in a Commander and the other 13lbs in a Glock but you cannot say either one will be 13lbs in a Canik - different gun, different slide travel distance, etc.

Back on topic...

Now, anytime you are using a recoil spring that was not specifically designed for your pistol, you really need to check to make sure it has enough room for full compression without bottoming out early. There are a few ways to do this but the easiest requires two pieces of masking tape and a pencil. First put a piece of masking tape on the frame and another piece on the slide. I usually put one piece from behind the slide release to the rear of the pistol’s frame and a piece on the slide that is about an inch long right in front of the rear slide serrations but it doesn’t really matter so long as both pieces line up when the slide is racked back as far as it can go.
Step one: Put your factory guide rod in the Canik, rack the slide all the way back and hold it in place (not with the slide lock but all the way back...a second person makes this much easier). Use a pen or pencil and make a line straight down from the tape on the slide to the tape on the frame.
Step two: put in your replacement guide rod and spring and do the same thing again. If the slide now stops short of the first mark you made with the factory spring, your spring is bottoming out early.
Comparison of the factory spring (Black mark) with the Glock spring (White mark) when I first tested it...it may not look like much but that’s about 4mm of travel:

Image

The fix? Wolff Glock springs have a big end and a little end. The little end goes on the guide rod and the big end is the side that rests on the Gen 4 adapter. You want to remove one coil from the big end and test it again. How many coils you need to remove (if any) will depend on the weight of the spring, thickness of the coils and so on. Remove one coil at a time until the mark on your slide lines up with the line you made on the tape on the frame when using the factory RSA.
Once you get the right length, bend the new last coil down to where it is flat on the end like the original one (you may need two pairs of pliers to do this) and then use a piece of 400 grit to remove any sharp edge from where you cut the spring.
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Weapon » Mon Oct 15, 2018 7:53 pm

Follow up thought on the Jentra Ultra Guide Rod - mine had a little bit of micro texture to the surface of the guide rod. Okay...it’s only $65-$70 so I guess polishing is left to the end user. I gave mine the usual treatment of 1500 grit followed by 2000grit and then a few passes on the polishing wheel with ultra fine polish and got rid of the slight bit of grittiness. Overkill? Probably...but I cannot stand a gritty feeling pistol. Blah!
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Hank B » Mon Oct 15, 2018 11:12 pm

Hey guys. Just wanted to stop in and give the good news. Just hit the 4000 round mark today shooting 124g. NATO Winchester White Box without one single FTF, FTE, LPS not one malfunction. Slide locked back every time after I adjusted my grip slightly to keep my thumb off the slide release. I was using my 5 20 rnd. Canik mags and one 30 rounder made for the Canik by Pro Mag. It's amazing what a little polishing and quiet a few spring changes can make. Weapon I appreciate all the information you have given, you are the Canik guru hands down. Will send a few pictures if I can figure out how lol.

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