Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Modifications, Tutorials, Gunsmithing, Instructional and "How To" articles, write ups and videos.
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Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Weapon » Wed Apr 25, 2018 2:14 pm

This is mostly info on Canik mods that I had posted in other threads related to the V2, SF, SF Elite or SFX. It was scattered through just about every other section of the forum so I thought it would be easier to find if consolidated into one post.

Before moving on, as always, all gunsmithing work should be performed by a competent pistolsmith. If you do not know what you are doing, take your pistol to someone to have this type of work performed. All spring mods are recommended for competition and general range use only (i.e. not recommended for self-defense/concealed carry). The trigger on most Caniks is at the light end of acceptable concealed carry trigger pull range right out of the box so I would not suggest lightening any of them for carry purposes.

Trigger Mods - these will work on any of the TP9 pistols from SA to DA. I haven't had a chance to test any of them with a TP9V1 so I cannot say one way or another how they work with the V1.

31 Newton Glock striker spring (all Glock springs are standard Glock 17/22 springs) - it worked with no light strikes and noticeably reduced the trigger pull by several ounces. I nipped off one coil from the spring after originally testing it and there were still no light strikes with decent ammo. Cutting off the additional coil made very little difference in trigger pull so I would leave the spring in factory condition. I nipped the coil to get some idea as to how close it was to getting light hits. In unaltered condition, this spring should have 100% ignition with everything but the hardest primers.

Wolff 6lb striker spring for Glock 17. These are odd because they are longer than the factory Glock striker spring but they are slightly shorter than the SFx's original striker spring. No light strikes with decent ammo, trigger pull roughly the same as the 31 Newton spring. Nipping off one or two coils makes it very close to the Glock 28 Newton spring.

Glock 28 Newton Striker spring - While this spring is actually rated as a 6.29lb spring (0.29lbs heavier than the Wolff), it actually gives a slightly lighter trigger pull than the Wolff 6 pound Glock striker spring when used in the TP9 pistols because it is a couple coil lengths shorter. This spring had the best overall feel in my SFx with no light strikes. This one is on the very edge of the light strike zone. It may lead to light strikes in some pistols and will certainly have light strikes with really hard primers. Test it with your ammo extensively before game day.

Update: Ghost 6.5lb (~29 Newton) Glock striker spring. This is now probably my favorite striker spring. It works well with lighter recoil springs in my SFx but isn't quite as close to the edge of the light strike zone as the 6lb Wolff or the 28 Newton red spring. They still allow for a very nice trigger pull. Bonus: they are downright inexpensive at around $3.50 per spring.

Glock 5.5lb striker spring.
Very much lightened the trigger pull but resulted in fairly frequent light strikes on every Canik I have tested. Light strikes were far too often for competition use even when using brand new, quality 9mm ammo from Federal, Winchester, Remington and so on. Your Canik may be different but I would expect fairly frequent failures to ignite if you use the 5.5lb Glock Striker Spring.

Wolff reduced power firing pin block spring for Glock. Reduced the measurable pull of the trigger slightly and made it feel slightly softer. UPDATE: if you have one of the newer Caniks with the Severe duty upgrade springs (you can tell by looking at the spring in the trigger from the top of the frame with the slide off - if the spring in the trigger is red, it is the SDU spring set), changing the factory blue SDU block plunger spring to a Ghost or Wolff Glock reduced power block plunger spring will likely take almost a pound off your trigger pull. The new SDU spring is the fly in the trigger pull ointment.

Trigger return spring...
The quickest and least expensive route to a really light, competition trigger on the SFx is to get a Glock 17 28 Newton Striker spring, nip a coil off of the factory FP plunger spring (unless you have the SDU block plunger spring - just replace it) and then polish all of the internals. The next trick sounds like a crazy idea but it works - go to Home Depot and buy their spring assortment box for $4.88...in that box, you will find several tension springs that look remarkably like the trigger return spring in the SFx - the one with the smallest diameter is the one you want. There should be three of them in the box so you will have two spares to play with. Nip two or three coils off of one of them and bend the last coil to hook on to the ejector block. You may have to polish a little off the bottom of the block in the trigger safety as the spring in it will likely require almost as much force as the trigger pull itself so there is little room for error and the trigger block may not disengage if your finger hits a little high on the trigger.

Polish work - I polish pretty much everything in the trigger system. More specifically, all of the trigger bar contact points, the area of the frame where the trigger bar makes contact (it is polymer so 1500 and then 2000 grit 3M paper), the sides of the sear levers and so on. I will add a detailed post on this with pics from my SFx later.

Trigger pre-travel. There is a little too much take-up on the first pull of most of the single action Canik pistols but it isn't that much of an issue because it is smooth and has almost no resistance. It isn't a problem with follow up shots after you get used to the trigger as the trigger reset is very short. Unfortunately, significantly reducing the take up would also require modding the trigger safety lever and possibly the frame if you want to remove the majority of pre-travel. I haven't bothered with it as of yet as it doesn't really annoy me.
Update: you can limit take up on the trigger by putting a pin directly above the trigger bar in the SFx trigger. It usually requires shaving a small amount off the blade safety's engagement but it can be done while still leaving the trigger safety functional. Caveat: it is risky and if you screw up a replacement trigger is hard to come by at this time. However, I will put up a post about how to do it if Canik doesn't release the adjustable flat trigger in reasonable time frame. There is also another flat faced trigger which is about to hit the market for the SFx so holding off for one of these two triggers is certainly the safest option.
UPDATE: The Freedomsmith USA Canik trigger is now available - it greatly reduces takeup and overtravel. It is well worth the money.

The lightest my SFx trigger has been with all the above: 1lb 9oz. It is too light and felt a little mushy but it is certainly possible. A 2.0lb trigger isn't very hard or expensive with the SF/SFx (sorry Glock fanboyz who had to spend $300 or more in aftermarket goodies to get anywhere close).

Resolving TP9 Slide Lock Problems: see Second or Third post down on page 2 of this thread.

FTE and FTF Issues along with some info on the Severe Duty Upgrade...see about 1/2 of the way down page 2 under the post cleverly titled "FTE and FTF Issues as well as a note on the Severe Duty Upgrade"

SF Elite Carry Trigger Mod
This trigger mod is for those in liability prone states where the Elite’s trigger might cause some problems if you ever had to use it in self defense and also for those who want just a bit more margin of error with their Elite. While I do not have a problem with it, many SF Elites will have a trigger pull of around 3.5lbs after break in and possibly even lower after extensive use. In many areas, that can get you labeled as having a “hair trigger” by politically motivated law enforcement and prosecutors and possibly open you up to civil liability suits as well even if you use the pistol in a 100% justified self defense shooting. The general rule for many of these areas seems to be that a trigger under 4.0 or 4.5lbs is somehow unsafe even when used by very well trained individuals. While you might be able to prevail on this type of nonsense at trial, that trial would cost you a small (possibly large) fortune. As a trial attorney with ~two decades of trial experience, I assure you that criminal trials are not inexpensive, they often go on for seemingly forever and the stress will suck the life out of you so there are really good reasons to avoid them if possible. Enough happy talk - on to the mod.

This mod will actually have a couple of benefits and, possibly a couple of minor drawbacks but it will get you up to a 4.5-5lb trigger which will still be very nice compared to many other triggers on the market.

You will need a Glock 17 factory oem trigger return spring and possibly a Wolff Glock 17 6lb striker spring. These are the results from the Elite I tested (original trigger 3lbs 10oz):
Canik Factory striker spring + Glock trigger return spring (TRS for short): 5lbs 1oz on average.
Wolff 6lb Striker spring + Glock oem TRS = 4lb 9.5oz trigger (after the spring settled in some - it was originally about ~4lbs 14oz)

The first one with only the Glock TRS does change the feel of the trigger considerably as it adds resistance to the take up. It is somewhat like turning the Elite’s trigger into a really smooth DAO which probably sounds really odd from just a spring change but that’s about the best way I can describe it. First bonus: get you out of the hair trigger zone. Second bonus: the trigger reset is just crazy. All of the Caniks have great trigger resets but with this mod, the trigger is right with your finger as it hits the reset point. Overall, tt is a very usable self defense trigger.

The second one with the Wolff striker spring is much the same but just a little smoother and lighter when you get to the wall in the trigger. It reminds me of the Para LDA trigger but it isn’t entirely the same. Pros: out of mythical “hair trigger” zone and still a very useable combat trigger. Possible con: a slightly increased chance of light strikes but those are likely still very low probability when using quality self defense ammo.

As always with ANY gun modification, test it extensively before you rely on it to save your life. I doubt it will have any problems but that is no substitute for actually testing it to make sure.

“Okay Weapon, why didn’t you just use a spring slightly heavier than the Canik factory striker spring to increase the Elite’s trigger pull?”
Pick your favorite:
1. Because no company on Earth is silly enough to make a 32lb striker spring
2. I couldn’t figure out how to get a 1967 Mustang suspension spring to fit in the slide
3. I did not want to be that cruel to primers...even the cheap, hard foreign ones.

Sights - if you get any TP9 which does not shoot to point of aim when you first test it, do not immediately switch out the front or rear sight to account for it. My SFx shot high but point of aim and point of impact came together with break in. This can happen with any pistol which has a finish like Cerakote or any form of plating if it ends up being just a little too thick on one contact surface or another. It isn't that much of a problem with Cerakote as it evens out pretty quickly. There is no guarantee that POA/POI will eventually match up as my SF Elite never quite lined up and I ended up changing the front sight.

Note on TP9 sights: if your front sight pushes in from the front of the slide, you have the older CZ75 style sight cuts. If your front sight pushes in from the side of the slide (cross dovetail), then you have the newer sight cuts which use a S&W M&P front sight and a Glock 43 rear sight. The Glock rear sight dovetail is the same on all Glock sights but the 43 is a slim slide model and the sight is not as wide as that on a full sized Glock. If you use a Glock 17 sight on a Canik SF, SF Elite, etc, you will end up with dovetail and sight blade overhanging the slide top.

Sight height: varies from pistol to pistol based on the ammo you are using (obviously) and the sight picture you are accustomed to (combat hold, 6 o'clock hold, etc.) If your Canik doesn't hit where you want, first break in as noted above. If it is still off, the fine folks at Dawson Precision can certainly help you get it lined out.

The factory front fiber optic is 0.040"/1mm diameter if you need replacement fiber optic rods. It is the same diameter as that used in Dawson Precision Fiber optic front sights.

TP9SFx optic mounting:
Plate one: Docter (for those who want a red dot that costs more than the pistol), Meopta, insight and Vortex. Edit: Not listed in the manual but the Burris Fastfire III uses the same pattern. Update: TruGlo red dot uses Plate 1
Plate 2: Trijicon (also for those who wish to pay more for the sight than the pistol...)
Plate 3: C-More
Plate 4: Leupold, Shield and J-Point

Use the mounting screws that were included with the SFx in the small plastic box.

Guide Rods:

GUIDE ROD UPDATE - see page 2 for tuning up the factory guide rod as well as an inexpensive alternative that will allow you to swap out recoil springs quickly.

The Grayguns uncaptured guide rod for the Sig P320-F will work in the TP9SFx and other TP9s. It will require removing some of the length from the guide rod for anything shorter than an SFx. It uses 1911 springs and that is a bonus as the 1911 likely has more options for recoils springs than any other pistol.
Note: I have spoken to Grayguns about this guide rod and verified the dimensions - it is within 0.002" in critical dimensions when compared to the TP9 guide rods. Grayguns will not claim it will work in the TP9 as it was designed for the Sig P320 fullsize.

A captured Glock 17 SS guide rod with a Gen 3 to Gen 4 adapter will work on the SFx. I recently verified this with the custom captured rod from my brother's Glock when he wasn't lookin'. 😆 Edit: thanks to nickd (CF Member 017) for pointing out the Glock 17 RSA would work - I had not thought about trying that one until I saw his post about it. I am trying to get credit added into this post for those who came up with different solutions even if I have to dig through some older threads to find it. :)

Sprinco also has a model of their recoil management system which works. It is the same as the Sprinco PPQ 5" match guide rod. The white recoil spring works well with light loads for production and carry optics and the red spring they sell is for hotter loads. If you order using the number for the PPQ model, email them and tell them you are buying it for the Canik TP9SFX. The part number is: 19170. The description is: 5" Walther PPQ M2 9mm Q5 Match (Includes White Recoil Spring for Minor PF Loads).
NOTE: if you want to use the white spring with the sprinco, you will have to change out your striker spring as well. The stock striker spring is too hard for the white recoil spring to compress on closing the slide (like almost all striker fired pistols, TP9 pistols cock on the end of the slide's closing stroke). The 28Newton, 6.5lb Ghost or 6lb Wolff springs are basically a requirement to use the white recoil spring or you WILL eventually run into failure to return to full battery problems. It may not happen on day one but it will start happening not long thereafter with the factory striker spring.
www.sprinco.com/recoil.html

TP9SFx cocking handle mod: once you have the cocking handle installed on the SFx, put a couple layers of quality heatshrink tubing over it. Which ever finger you use to rack the slide with the cocking handle will love you for it. (Note: cocking handle is not legal for USPSA Carry Optics Division)

If you want it to be even slightly softer, a short section of high quality silicone tubing over the heatshrink mod will make it slightly larger and a little softer. Just measure the outside diameter of the cocking handle after the heatshrink mod and then order silicone tubing with the right ID to fit a bit snug. Tip for getting it over the heatshrink if it is really tight: add just a tiny amount of slightly soapy water (about one drop of soap in half cup of water) to help it slip on. Pinch out the excess water and let it dry. The soapy water will turn tacky once dry.
If you want a larger diameter cocking handle that is fairly firm but still with a slightly rubbery feel that is much nicer than the factory's small diameter finger joint torture device...you can order automotive vacuum line tubing with the right ID...or fuel line for that matter. You can get the handle diameter up to around 5/8" without much effort if you want it that thick. However, a layer or two of heatshrink will calm down the outer edges on it and greatly improve the feel with only a minor bump in diameter if that is all you want to do to it. You will barely even be able to see a difference if you use flat black heatshrink but the finger you use to rack the slide will definitely know it is there.

Grip enhancement:
TractionGrips
tractiongrips.com/catalog/c59_p1.html
Talons:
talongungrips.com/grips/canik/

More to follow.
I am also updating this post on an ongoing basis to try to get as much of the info as possible in one single post. However, some of it is still spread throughout the following pages.
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Weapon » Wed Apr 25, 2018 2:18 pm

Current trigger on my SFx is 2lbs 8oz. No clue what I did with the pic of the Lyman gauge's screen for that one but it feels lighter than 2.5lbs. In fact, it feels pretty close to nothing.

My SFx's current mod list:
Modified Wolff 6lbs Glock 17 striker spring (Update: now running a Ghost 6.5lb striker spring for a Glock)
Tweaked Wolff reduced power FP block plunger spring for a Glock
Trigger bar and all internals deburred and polished
Frame where trigger makes contact polished (up to 2500 grit wet then plastic polish on a cotton rag)
Extractor hook slightly radiused and polished
Feed ramp polished
Chamber polished
Frame rails lightly polished
Mag followers deburred and lightly polished (1500 grit on the sides and bottom edges just to smooth them out a little - faux break-in)
Talon grip
Optic: Burris FF3
Holster: Kydex speed cut body I made on a Tek-lok (for the time being).

Forgot some stuff. Will add it when I figure out what. lol
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Weapon » Wed Apr 25, 2018 2:19 pm

I mentioned this only briefly in one of the above posts and it likely deserves a bit more attention. One of the problems you will almost certainly run into with an extremely light trigger on the SF, SF Elite or SFx is the trigger's blade safety. Once you get down to around 2.25lbs (and certainly anything under that), you will discover that the blade safety in the trigger will not want to disengage. The cause is fairly simple - the initial take up in the trigger pull is lower resistance than what is required to fully depress the spring which puts tension on the trigger blade. The trigger will then move back to a point where the blade safety will not disengage before it hits enough resistance to overcome the blade safety's spring.

A 2.25lbs and, especially a trigger lighter than that, on the SFx is crazy light and I doubt many will feel compelled to go that low. However, if you do, there are only a few options to get around it.
1. find a lower power spring to put in the trigger safety
2. Modify the trigger blade so it will clear when slightly farther back (or make a new blade to do the same so you can keep your original trigger blade in factory form)
3. My least favorite option - lengthen the notch cut in the frame for the trigger blade clearance.

If you train yourself to pull the very bottom of the trigger blade, you might be able to avoid problems until you are under 2.0lbs but the first time you put your finger higher on the trigger shoe, the Canik's trigger safety will likely say "denied!" The same will almost certainly occur if or when you try to shorten the take up in the trigger so watch out for that issue if you try that mod.
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Weapon » Wed Apr 25, 2018 2:25 pm

Canik announced the SFL before I could track down another SFx to turn into a tactical model as opposed to a competition pistol. How did they know I was going to make it solid black? :geek: While I like the idea of it and it would certainly be a great home defense gun, building an SF model with some tacticool tweakage is also very tempting. While the SFL offers a longer sight radius the SF is a little quicker handling and maybe slightly easier to conceal. The slide lightening cuts on the SFL also cause me some concern for a self defense pistol or GTW pistol. Where those lighten the slide and make a lot of sense on the SFx, making slide cuts that did not go all the way through the slide and give dirt, mud and sand a window into the pistol's barrel would have likely been a better plan if it is aimed at the self defense/GTW market.

Obviously, Canik is not the only manufacturer to do something like this. Glock cuts a hole in the top of their longslide models that is slightly larger than the sunroof in a Porsche 928s4. That one really causes me concern as it would allow much larger objects to get in between the barrel and slide possibly jam up the works. Mud, grit, small pebbles, bits of foliage, chunks of tree bark, a rabid chipmunk....all sorts of things could get through that open barn door that Glock calls a "lightening cut"

While I am happy to see the SFL on the market, is really isn't the pistol I and many others have been waiting for Canik to release. As they seem to keep missing my posts on that topic, I am going to bring it up in this post yet again...

TP9DA trigger, Elite grip length, non-ambi-non-extended slide release (we are shooting for as thin as possible here), TP9DA/V2 barrel length and slide length, dot or tritium dot front sight (fiber optic is worthless in low light). If Canik puts it off much longer, I will be buy a DA and chopping the grip down on it myself.

Additional hint to Canik: ditch the included holster and apply that expense towards a tritium front sight or some other type of in-the-box swag...given the option, I'd take a Canik secret decoder ring or Canik lollipop (wild cherry or grape flavor please) over the included holster. Just in case the Turks are reading this...those last two were often found prizes in the bottom of North American cereal boxes. I have no idea if they lured children into early onset diabetes and tooth decay across pond by putting injection molded plastic spy toys in the bottom of sugar-loaded breakfast cereals so that was a just-in-case-of-culture-gap clarification thing. It would possibly still work as a marketing gimmick for handguns in the USA as we like surprise toys in the bottom of the box. Scratch that - some idiot on YouTube would do an unboxing video in 4K without a secret gadget spoiler alert and ruin it for everybody.
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Weapon » Wed Apr 25, 2018 2:26 pm

TP9 SF Elite - old spring vs. new spring
My brother recently received a new RSA for his Elite. He ordered it more as a just in case part as he normally shoots fairly warm ammo - often 124gr NATO spec as it is fairly inexpensive and closer to self defense ammo for practice purposes (if you practice with really light ammo all the time, full-power self defense ammo will be a bit of a surprise in terms of recoil and possibly POI).

Anyway, his original Elite RSA was possibly one of the newer ones from the start or maybe he has just broken it in nicely as at the moment, I cannot tell much difference. Q4318 ammo is ejecting brass about the same distance with either RSA but that may change some after the new spring has some break-in. Regardless, I doubt it is light enough to shoot the lightest powder puff ammo that is apt to be found on a local store's shelf. As such, if you want to shoot really light loads, the best option is likely an aftermarket guide rod with a lighter spring. That is probably true for the SFx as well if you are wanting to shoot really light loads. The Grayguns P320 guide rod will work in either pistol but will certainly have to be cut down for the Elite.

Speaking of pistols which are sprung heavy from the factory, I tested a new gen 4 G19 and Beretta PX4 Compact Carry model over the weekend and was slightly surprised to find they have RSAs much like that in my SF Elite. All three of them piled casings the same distance from the shooter when using Q4318 or some fairly warm 9mm reloads I had cranked out for testing (115gr HAP at the top of the charge range with PowerPistol so they have some zing to them). The Langdon tweaked PX4 is definitely sprung for SD loads and I suppose that makes sense as it has "carry" in its name. I will have to go into more detail on that pistol in another thread as it is a top tier carry pistol worthy of some yammering on about.
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Weapon » Wed Apr 25, 2018 2:28 pm

Update on Night Sight Options:
Century now seems to have a truglo tritium set available for the Caniks. Ameriglo will sell you individual tritium sights and they are very helpful when it comes to sorting out sight height, etc. if you email them and let them know you have a Canik.

Link to set at Century:
www.centuryarms.com/ot1898.html#
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Weapon » Wed Apr 25, 2018 2:29 pm

Update on the 28 Newton striker springs.

Depending on how hard the primers are in your ammo, it might be a good idea to swap out 28 Newton springs every 6-12 months if you are serious about competition. It is hard to say how often as if you only shoot now and then and you use softer primers, the 28 Newton spring may be good for more than a year (or even two). If you are using harder primers and shoot a lot every month, you might run into gradually increasing light strikes at 6-8 months.

Simple solution: make a note of when you install the spring in your pistol, keep a rough estimate of the rounds fired and see how long it takes for light strikes to occur. That will give you an estimate of when to swap out striker springs.

When I started working with the 28 Newton (6.29lb) springs, I knew they were fairly close to the reliable ignition breaking point as a 5.5lb spring will have an occasional light strike even when brand new. However, getting right on that edge is often (unfortunately) the sweet spot for maximum performance in competitive shooting.

More on this later - I have to get a few hours of sleep

A more in-depth look at V2/DA tune up will be the next stop for this thread
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Weapon » Wed Apr 25, 2018 2:31 pm

Note on Canik sights: Early models vs. New models.

They changed over to the newer sight cuts when the SF was released. Then started using the new sight cuts on the V2 and SA. So you can find either the CZ sight cuts or the new sight cuts on the SA and V2 depending on when it was made. For example, my V2 has the older CZ style front sight and rear sight dovetail. I think janek has one V2 with the older cuts and another with the new style. The SF, DA, SF Elite, SFx and SFL should all have the new style cuts with an M&P front dovetail and a Glock rear dovetail. Out of the Glock rear sights, those for the G43 are usually the best fit to the width of the slide
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Weapon » Wed Apr 25, 2018 2:34 pm

I should likely post this in a more visible area of the forum and may actually do so after I ramble off a few irritating things I keep seeing on various FB pages and other forums regarding the Caniks.

"You gotta break in Caniks with 124 gr ammo." False. If you want a quick and easy break in, 124gr NATO spec is likely the quickest and easiest way to beat the factory recoil spring into submission but the important part of that ammo description is not "124gr" - it is "NATO spec". I have likely typed that about 500 times now but "you need to break it in with 124gr ammo" keeps popping up like some sort of un-killable mosquito buzzing in your ear at 3am. The weight of the bullet is relevant only insofar as it is part of the power factor math. 124gr 9mm NATO spec ammo works for break in. 124gr 9mm Luger powder puff ammo does not work for break in.

"The Firing Pin breaks because of the factory striker spring or too much dry fire." That gets a Weapon rating of: partly true and partly false.
The factory striker spring is a mega-stout mama-jamma but the most likely cause of the tip breaking off on some firing pins when they have a surprisingly low round count is a problem with the metal injection molding on at least one run of firing pins. Proof? I dryfired the bejesus out of my V2 before I ever changed out the striker spring and it didn't break. I did the same with my SF Elite. Both now have several thousand rounds through them. I know dozens of other people who have done the same with no issue. That points pretty heavily to a run of bad firing pins being the problem. Century will apparently now ship out a new one to you if you send them a email saying something along the lines of "I think I might be a little worried about the possibility that someday in the future my firing pin might break or something." Bad MIM parts happen sometimes. That is why I am not particularly a fan of MIM but avoiding MIM parts on any pistol under $1000 is about as easy as trying to avoid comments made by oxygen-thieving liberals when watching CNN or MSNBC.

"If you don't want your firing pin to break, you need to put a 28 Newton spring in your Canik" NOOOOOOOOO. The 28 Newton Spring has two primary purposes: to help lighten the trigger pull, to resolve slide/battery issues when using a really light recoil spring AND that is only for Caniks you plan to use for competition or as range toys. A 28 Newton striker spring has no business whatsoever in an EDC/self-defense use Canik. You are worried about the firing pin in your EDC or home defense Canik? Put down the pretty red striker spring and slowly back away. The pretty blue striker spring (31 Newton) is an option for an EDC Canik but you should still test the Hell out of it with any ammo you plan to use for self defense purposes. An un-nipped Wolff 6lb G17 striker spring is also an option for an EDC Canik but that is not the fix for a bad MIM firing pin. If you happened to get a bad firing pin (the odds are pretty slim) with a tiny air bubble or weak point lurking near the tip, the lighter springs will just delay the inevitable breakage. The fix for firing pin concerns is the world's oldest rule for breaking in any pistol intended for self defense (500 round break in at absolute minimum before you trust your life to it) OR call Century and tell them your favorite psychic on the psychic hotline network suggested that one of the firing pins in one of your pistols was going to break within the next year so you need a new one....then shoot 500 rounds after you install the replacement pin to make sure it isn't going to break. :)

Minor confession: the 'striker spring swap as a fix for a weak firing pin' thing is probably my fault as, at one point while under the influence of weaponized coffee, I mentioned that the heavy-duty factory striker springs (which are able to launch a ballistic missile farther than any North Korean rocket engine made before 2016) were probably making the weaker firing pins break very quickly. Do I still think the factory striker springs are overkill? Yes. Unless you are buying el cheapo steel case made in a country you cannot pronounce or relatively old milsurp ammo which has primer cups made from AR500 armor plate, the factory striker spring is overkill. However, Canik built them to be NATO spec and that means a heavy emphasis on 100% primer ignition even if the firing pin has to drill through a Kryptonian primer to make that happen. AFAIK, none of the 9mm ammo made for the civilian market by ammo manufacturers in the USA is equipped with AR500 primer armor. Remington UMC may have something like Class II soft Kevlar primers on a production run from time to time but those do not require the Canik factory SCUD-launcher-rated striker spring for ignition.

"The RSAs in Caniks were defective!" False.
The powder puff ammo that people tried to use on day one at the range (likely before even bothering to clean out the factory rust preventative) was PowderPuff spec and not NATO spec. I have seen maybe two or three Caniks that would not run 100% on day one with NATO spec ammo. However, I suppose it is more tempting to blame the RSA than the "*Rollback. Was $9.97 now $8.46" box of ammo from the local Walmart. You can find Winchester Q4318 Nato spec for around $10-$11 a box and it will save you the $5 worth of ibuprofen you will have to take after trying to break in a Canik with ammo which only makes a "pffffft" noise after the bullet crawls to the end of the barrel and falls out.

"There aren't seven billion aftermarket parts available for the Caniks so there is no aftermarket support!" Mostly false.
That may have been fairly true in 2014 but that isn't the case now. Also, when the trigger doesn't suck out of the box, that eliminates the need for about five billion of the aftermarket parts which are deemed essential aftermarket parts for other pistols. Can you get guide rods and springs? Yes. Are there springs you can use to replace the striker spring and other springs? Yes. Are there dozens of holsters available? Yes. Sight? Yes. Night Sights? Yes. Talon or Tractiongrips? Yes. Spare parts and mags? Yes. A Canik bench mat with an exploded diagram of the pistol> Yes. The must-have Canik pistol shaped USB drive so you can hide your firearms/ammo expenses and your gun-buy-list from your wife? Yes.

At this point, I actually have to put forth a little effort to find parts or accessories to gripe about not being available (mag funnel, fully adjustable trigger shoe so I can spoil my trigger finger even more, tiny plastic replica of a Canik TP9SFx to put on my keyring after I micro-stipple the grip with a dull needle and Bic lighter, etc.). Speaking of those tiny little pistol replicas for keychains, does anyone know where to get night sights for Canik versions of those? I am certain that a dude on FB will claim that is an essential upgrade sooner or later and some silly asshat likely already makes them for Glocks. "Tactical, low-profile tritium night sights for your tiny, plastic Glock keychain pistol - so you can still see the sights on your sub-micro, non-functional pistol in complete darkness. $79 plus s&h"
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Weapon » Wed Apr 25, 2018 2:35 pm

@9mmshooter wrote:wepon, this write-up is the best I have seen on this subject. Thank you for sharing it, and please continue to up-date it for us as you see fit. Again thanks for sharing.
Thanks. I am now trying to cover TP9 tuning and some of the issues which pop up daily on Facebook in one thread. Facebook is just a horrible platform to have a decent discussion about gun tuning or issues because there is no manageable order to it. 50 people will ask a question one week (or day in some cases...e.g."why is the holster lock button on the inside?!?!") and everyone responds but it is then gone two or three days later. That or someone reads posts on this forum about 124gr NATO for break-in or using a 28 Newton spring to lighten the trigger or fix the slide returning to battery issue when using a really light recoil spring and by the time it gets half repeated on some of the other FB pages or in other forums, that info somehow turns into "all 124gr 9mm ammo is the key to break-in" and "every Canik should have a red striker spring in it" [insert the sound of me banging my head against a wall here].[br][br]The TP9V2/TP9DA. I swear I will get to the specific tweaks for them!! lol - I really need to ignore FB pages for a few days as those instantly derail my plans for this thread every time I open them. Second minor confession of the day: a good deal of the info in this thread actually came from tuning up a V2 the month they landed in the US and then that information was immediately re-applied to latter TP9 pistols like the SF, SF Elite and SFx as soon as I got my mitts on them. I would post the date from when I first put a red striker spring and/or a blue striker spring in a V2 and started testing them along with RP block plunger springs, etc. but most people would probably be like "V2s were not even in the USA then!!" (rofl) ). In any event, considering a V2 played guinea pig for much of this info, I have left it very neglected when it comes to specific details on tuning it. Actually, it was two V2s as my brother allowed me to use his V2 as a lab rat as well.[br]
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Weapon » Wed Apr 25, 2018 2:39 pm

If this thread seems to progress oddly...rapid forum migration. :)

I missed a few questions in there. Likely because I been scanning this thread while sleep deprived at 3am for the last few days. Tonight, I cheated and scanned it at 2:15am :)
@trymin wrote:...is there anything else that I may need to do to get competition ready besides the trigger? I plan on just running 3-gun in tac ops div, so I dont plan on doing anything with a red dot. Should I get the stock sights changed out to the truglos?
Also, a good friend of mine is developing a magwell funnel if anyone is interested. Will be selling those fairly cheap too. Just trying to get his productions up and running, but I can post photos/review of the magwell funnel too once its complete if yall are interested
The out-of-the-box triggers have been kind of all over the place on the SFx pistols lately so what you may have to do to it will depend on how it is out of the box. Before that worries you too much, they seemed to bump them up a little immediately after the Sig P320 “omg! I cannot safely whack the back of my loaded gun with a hammer” nonsense but the most recent SFx trigger reports I have seen showed they were returning to the originally advertised weight of 3.5-4lbs. If I received one with a trigger that stayed over 4.0lbs after a couple hundred rounds of break-in, Century would be getting an email about it.

Anyway, the striker spring swap or any other trigger mod is likely not necessary if you get an SFx that settles in around 3.5lbs unless you just want to squeeze out that extra little bit of performance or you plan to swap out guide rods and recoil springs to something lighter. This will obviously depend on the load you choose as your match ammo and it’s power factor in particular. Light loads will likely require a recoils spring swap and really light loads will require a recoil spring swap and a striker spring swap.

If you are going to shoot typical 9mm ammo, you can still lighten up the recoil spring a little but without getting to the point of also having to lighten the striker spring to avoid out of battery problems. I would likely change out the striker spring to at least a 31 Newton or slightly shortened Wolff 6lb striker spring even if I didn’t change out the recoil spring just because the lighter striker spring will lessen the wall in the trigger stroke.

I am running a 28 Newton in my SFx at the moment along with a Wolff reduced power Glock firing pin block plunger spring even though I didn’t change out my RSA (I tend to shoot warmer loads because nothing in a full-sized 9mm feels all that hot after shooting truly hot .40 in Limited back when power factor to make major was 175...people are spoiled by this 165 nonsense lol).

Sights are so subjective that about all I can say on that point is try the Warren Tactical sights and see if you like them before spending the money on something else. A lot of the top shooters use a sight setup that is virtually identical to the SFx factory sights. That being said, I prefer a slightly larger fiber optic than the one in the factory front sight as it allows for slightly quicker pickup.

If you plan to use any Canik for anything other than outdoor competition, I would change the factory sights. Fiber optics are good when under sunlight or other fairly bright light. Other than that, they are fairly useless. My local indoor range is kind of dimly lit and the factory fiber optic front might as well be a solid black sight in that lighting. For all around use, I greatly prefer a tritium front sight with a glow ring (like the AmeriGlo or the Night Fision Perfect Dot) as they work under any and all conditions.
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Weapon » Wed Apr 25, 2018 2:42 pm

@canikmekanik wrote:[br]To toss some more feedback into the fray, the only issue I'm still having with my SFx is rare and unpredictable light strikes. I have zero problems (after break-in) cycling Freedom Munitions 147 gr rated (unmeasured) at only 925 fps with a Sprinco RSA. I also installed a very pretty red 28n striker spring to solve a potential out-of-battery/loose slide condition. However, I've had a total of 5 light primer strikes using the FM ammo and the 28n striker spring. I've ordered a pretty blue 31n spring to find out if it's a happy medium between the 28n and the OE striker spring. It's a $10.00 experiment.
The light strikes with the 28N could be due to a few different causes. It could be an occasional primer with a slightly harder cup. Another would be a primer that is not 100% seated. As I mentioned here and in other threads, the 28N is running right up to the edge of as light as you can go for reliable ignition so if you run into a round with any kind of primer fluke, you are apt to find out about it with a click.

The 31 Newton is probably a 100% fix unless someone slips you some ammo with the diamond like primers they use in Monarch steel case. Those primers are so annoying that I have been tempted to reinstall the factory striker spring for one range session just to beat the crap out of box of them. However, there is another striker spring option but they are not a pretty color. The 6lb Wolff is longer than the 31N or the 28N and despite its 6lb rating (26 and change Newtons), due to its extra length, it acts more like the 31Newton when installed in the SFx. This gives the man armed with a pair of heavy wire cutters or dremel a tunable option for everything from around 31N down to as many coils as you want to shave off. They are also much less expensive than the pretty red and pretty blue springs as you can get a 3 pack of them straight from Wolff for $7.49 plus shipping. That is a helluva deal in comparison to the Newtons which are typically $10 a pop.

EDIT: Try the Ghost 6.5lb spring for the Glock. It is a little more thump on the primer than the 28N but not so much as the 31N. The Ghost 6.5 gives you more room for tuning down your recoil spring than the 31N as well.
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Weapon » Wed Apr 25, 2018 2:44 pm

@chitowncanik wrote:I picked up a SFX last month and planning on putting a red dot on it. I did a couple USPSA events this year and want to get into it more in 2018. Would changing out the guide rod and recoil spring (Grayguns for example) help it shoot flatter and reduce muzzle rise? If I do change that out, then is it recommended to swap out the striker spring?
Almost impossible to say as it depends on your load. If you go with a really light recoil spring, you can get a softer shooting pistol but you have to have it tweaked to your load and/or your load tweaked to the spring. As usual, there are trade-offs and complications.
For example:
- If you have a really light load and really light RSA, you will almost certainly have to swap out to a 28N striker spring to avoid out-of-battery issues. However, a 28N striker spring increases your chances of getting light strikes if you get a harder primer or primer which isn’t fully seated (more info on this and a possible solution one post back)
-if you lighten your recoil spring too much and your load is a little warmer, you can run into issues with the slide and frame taking a beating.[br]-if you run a light spring with a light load and 28N spring and have no other problems, you can still end up with longer slide cycling times which will suck up some of the advantage you gained from a softer shooting pistol.
Getting onto the edge of the performance envelope is not always easy but staying balanced on it is usually even harder. The 28N will need to be swapped out maybe once or twice a year to avoid an increased risk of light strikes. You can run into similar issues with recoil spring swaps if you allow yourself a really thin margin of error (which is of course where you always find the edge of the performance envelope as well).

There is an old saying that goes something like: cheap, fast or good - pick any two. For competition pistols that is something like: ultra light trigger, flat shooting and reliable - pick any two. You can actually get all three but it requires a lot of nitpicky tuning, maintenance and really consistent ammo.
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Weapon » Wed Apr 25, 2018 2:47 pm

While this is primarily a TP9 mod/tuning thread, the SFx and competition related points come up frequently. So, a tuning and competition note fits...
When it comes to competition pistols, you are often looking at trying to gain a fraction of a second here and there. Some things make shooting easier by making the pistol more user friendly. A really great trigger doesn’t increase the mechanical accuracy of a pistol but it does increase the usable accuracy by making it easier to pull the trigger without pulling the pistol off target. Until you get to the point of causing reliability issues or safety issues, a lighter trigger is usually better when it comes to competition triggers but getting all up to the very peak of performance isn’t always the best approach.
For example, a 2.25lb trigger that works 100% of the time is far better than a 2.0lb trigger that works 99% of the time for most people as most people are not going to gain enough extra usable accuracy out of a 1/4 pound difference in pull when you are talking about triggers under 2.5lbs and typical match shooting distances. 100% reliability > 99% reliability with an increase in usable accuracy which is almost too small to measure with dial calipers.

The same is true with sights, mods to get flatter shooting pistols and so on. Even when something feels faster it sometimes isn’t faster. The only way to really nail down what works best for anyone when you are talking about shaving down your times/increasing accuracy/improving overall score is to go to the range with a shot timer and test everything several times to see what works best for you. There have been several times that I have tried this or that because everyone said it was “the best competition modification EVAR!!!” and when I first tested it my first thought may have even been “best mod EVAR!!”...but then the shot timer said “meh - you are actually a little slower”. Shot timers love giving you the occasional cold slap of reality.

The same is true for other little crazy details like: Do you get a better jump off a line when you start on your left foot or right? The timer might surprise you. Do you reload more quickly when transitioning left to right on targets or right to left? Might make a big difference on where you chose to drop a mag on a particular stage. And so on.
Buy a timer and use it when practicing or when testing gun mods which are supposed to shave your times. The Internet and the shot timer often do not see eye-to-eye.
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Weapon » Wed Apr 25, 2018 2:49 pm

I thought I had posted this earlier but I scanned back over the thread and didn’t see it.

Pic of the pretty blue 31N spring (bottom) next to the rear suspension spring of a 1974 Ford three-quarter ton truck...wait...that is actually the Canik factory striker spring (top).Image
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Weapon » Wed Apr 25, 2018 2:50 pm

@maestro196 wrote:So if I read this correctly I can get a m&p front sight that will work with my SF. I don’t mind the factory sight but this could end up being a carry gun as well as IDPA so I would like to get some sort of night sight on the front that would also work for lighted/daytime usage. Do people run stock rear sights with different front sights? What about the combination fiber/tritium sights? Are they worth it?
Yep. The front sight dovetail cut on the SF is the same as the S&W M&P front sight dovetail cut. If your SF shoots to point of aim, you just need to measure the height of the front sight blade on your SF and order an M&P front sight of the same height. AmeriGlo has some nice front sights which will fit as does Night Fision (although I don’t think they have them listed on their website yet but I haven’t checked in the last few days). Thus far, the most I have had to do to get an M&P front sight to fit in a Canik is the same as what I would expect if putting one in an M&P - check the fit and maybe polish the bottom slightly before pushing it in.
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Weapon » Wed Apr 25, 2018 2:52 pm

TP9 take down vid courtesy of practical shooter:
@practicalshooter wrote:My latest to help you destroy your gun, or swap parts, depending of how good you are :o
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZdFjfeECEDs
In case the link in the quote doesn’t work:

https://youtu.be/ZdFjfeECEDs
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Weapon » Wed Apr 25, 2018 2:56 pm

I use a slightly different method for the springs in the ejector assembly. I cut short slave pins from metal pin stock (wooden dowel of the right diameter works) and then assemble the springs on the parts the slave pins holding them in place. Push them into position in the ejector block and then just push out the slave pins with the sear pin and the sear lever pin one at a time. Either way works.
The good news is you don’t have to disassemble the ejector block to do 95% of the tuning on the trigger and those parts will break in fairly quickly. You can pull the ejector assembly out, carefully put a small dab of Tetra gun grease on the contact points and then drop it back in place without having to pull it apart. That isn’t quite as effective as pulling it apart, polishing all the contact surfaces, giving them an ultra thin coat of Tetra and then reassembling them but it is close and will definitely help some. You can get an SFX (or other TP9 with an SA trigger system) under 2.5lb without touching the ejector block other than to lift it up enough to get the trigger bar up or out for polishing and then to reconnect the trigger return spring.
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Carry Trigger Mod - the Original Version

Post by Weapon » Wed Apr 25, 2018 2:58 pm

Yet another tweak but this one is for carry purposes...

Some states are not so gun friendly and they are even less friendly towards people who are put in the unfortunate situation of having to use a firearm for self defense. Politically motivated prosecutors in such states love to pull up things like “hair triggers” or collapsible stocks as “reason” to prosecute a person for legitimate self defense.

The problem: the SA/SF/SF Elites will not survive their “hair trigger” test. Many of them want a trigger no lighter than 4.0lbs and some are fixated on 4.5lbs for whatever the reason. Any of the single action Caniks will likely settle in between 3.5lbs and 3.75lbs after break-in so it could cause some people some problems if they carry a Canik or use one for home defense. Also, I know of several people who find a 3.5lb trigger on the spooky light side when there is no affirmative thumb safety to help avoid an “oops!”

Anyhoo, I tested this on a completely stock SF Elite. The trigger on it had settled in at 3lbs 10oz so a bit more range time likely would have had down to 3.5lbs. I left the factory striker spring in place for the time being as I certainly have no plans to increase the trigger pull with a heavier striker spring (as if anyone makes a heavier one in the first place). So, the second obvious option was the trigger return spring because changing it out is easy peasy.

With SF Elite factory TRS: 3lbs 10oz
With Glock 17 oem TRS: 5.0lbs

Canik puts some kind of voodoo spell on their triggers because while it certainly feels heavier than 3.5lbs, it still doesn’t feel like 5lbs — maybe more like 4.5-4.75. It does change the feel quite a bit as it adds some resistance to the takeup which is normally effortless. With that extra resistance on the front, it is vaguely similar to a really good DA pull. The one thing that really stands out is the change in trigger reset snap-back. After the striker drops and you move your finger forward, the trigger is right there with your finger. If you trained yourself to ride the trigger reset with the G17 spring in it, you could probably almost match bump-fire rates of fire.[br][br]If you don’t want it all the way up to 5.0lbs, a very slight stretch of the G17 TRS would probably drop it down to 4.75ish lbs while still using the Canik factory striker spring. Keeping that striker spring is a bonus for those of us who wouldn’t wanna give up laying on the couch at night and dry firing number 2 pencils through the ceiling with our Caniks.

More fun with the Elite trigger.
Glock OEM trigger return spring, 6.5lb Ghost striker spring: 4lbs 14oz. Fairly good option for a carry pistol if you want a little more margin of error for an EDC Elite.
I am just about bored with the various springs swaps but I may try a few more before taking a stone to anything.
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Re: Canik TP9 Series Modifications and Upgrades

Post by Weapon » Wed Apr 25, 2018 3:01 pm

I looked at this when I first bought my SFx and I have been toying with the idea ever since. The stock guide rod is...actually two-piece. The cap is just threaded on and staked in a few places to keep it from coming loose. I finally got a spare and decided to test it (I didn’t want to test it before I had the spare as my usual luck would kick in and something would have snapped in the process). Anyway, I locked the end in my vise with leather padded jaws and then used an adjustable wrench on the flat sides of the guide rod to overcome the staked points. After I managed to back it off just a little, it unscrewed fairly easily and that little sucker came right off...more on this later as I cannot find another recoil spring that fits just right

More on Guide Rods here: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=21&p=83#p87
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